Hukou Waterfall Guide: The Yellow River’s Thundering Falls
You hear it before the road turns. A low, chest-level rumble that you feel in your sternum, and then the loess plateau simply opens and the Yellow River — three…
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Dianchi Lake Guide: Kunming’s Highland Lake and Western Hills
Stand on the Dragon Gate ledge on a clear December morning and Dianchi stops looking like a lake at all. It becomes a sheet of hammered tin, roughly 300 square…
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Eating in China on a Budget: Cheap Eats Under $5
A man in a stained white cap pulls a rope of dough into sixteen strands in under twenty seconds, drops them into a cauldron, fishes them out ninety seconds later…
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Yunnan Crossing-the-Bridge Noodles Guide
The bowl arrives and it is enormous, and it appears to contain nothing but soup. No steam rises off it, which is the first trap. Around it the waiter sets…
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Linyi Travel Guide: Shandong’s Mountains and Rediscovery of Confucius
The Yi River runs through the middle of this city almost a kilometre wide, and on a summer evening the entire population seems to be walking along it — grandmothers…
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Zibo Travel Guide: Shandong’s Barbecue Boom and Qi Heritage
At half past six on a warm evening the whole street starts to smoke at once. Every table has its own small charcoal grill sunk into the middle, and on…
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Zhenjiang Travel Guide: Jiangsu’s Vinegar City and River Hill
Climb the steps of Beigu Mountain at seven in the morning and the Yangtze below you is a sheet of grey tin, barges sliding downstream in single file, the pavilion…
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Xingyi Travel Guide: Guizhou’s Wanfenglin and Maling Gorge
Climb the ridge road south of Xingyi at eight in the morning and the valley below looks like a mistake in the landscape: several thousand near-identical green cones, each a…
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Kaili Travel Guide: Gateway to Miao and Dong Culture in Guizhou
Kaili itself will not seduce you. It is a workmanlike prefecture capital of concrete blocks and noodle shops spread across a bowl of green hills, and most travellers who arrive…
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Zigong Travel Guide: Dinosaurs and Lanterns in Sichuan
At Dashanpu, on the eastern edge of Zigong, a museum has been built directly on top of a fossil bed and the floor has simply been left open. You walk…
